A Long Lunch Under the Mediterranean Sun

There's a kind of quiet you only get in a French country kitchen. Heavy pan on the stove, nothing else matters. That's what this is. Bone-in thighs, so the skin goes properly crisp. A sauce that's been sitting with shallots and wine long enough to forget what time it is. And yes, anchovies. Don't panic. They dissolve completely and leave behind something deep and a bit mysterious. You won't taste fish. You'll taste why the sauce is so good and not know why. Throw in some olives, finish it with butter, and suddenly you've got something that feels like it's been made in that kitchen for a hundred years. Bring bread. Leaving this sauce behind would be a crime.